High-dynamic-range imaging (HDRI or HDR) is a technique used in imaging and photography to reproduce a greater dynamic range of luminosity than is possible with standard digital imaging or photographic techniques. The aim is to present the human eye with a similar range of luminance as that which, through the visual system, is familiar in everyday life. The human eye, through adaptation of the iris (and other methods) adjusts constantly to the broad dynamic changes ubiquitous in our environment. The brain continuously interprets this information so that most of us can see in a wide range of light conditions. Most cameras, on the other hand, cannot.
HDR images can represent a greater range of luminance levels than can be achieved using more 'traditional' methods, such as many real-world scenes containing very bright, direct sunlight to extreme shade, or very faint nebulae. This is often achieved by capturing and then combining several different narrower range exposures of the same subject matter.[1][2][3][4] Non-HDR cameras take photographs with a limited exposure range, resulting in the loss of detail in highlights or shadows.
(Information found at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-dynamic-range_imaging on 01.12.2015)
Here are a couple of examples of other peoples HDR images...
(Image found at http://www.pxleyes.com/images/users/C/Conceptions/2388/fullsize/4c9280a16ab45.jpg on 01.12.2015)
The image above it stunning, it looks very real, as though you are stood in that place looking at it with your own eyes. It has been framed very well and the more you look at the image the more detail you see and the more you want to look at it in more depth. I could quite happily sit admiring this image for hours.
(Image found at http://hdwallpapersfit.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/hdr-wallpapers-new.jpg on 01.12.2015)
I love this image because of the leading lines and because it is somewhat symmetrical. The detail and the different colours are great and work so well, especially with the rays of sunlight shining through the trees and hitting random places on the ground and track. The images has been framed very well and to say it looks quite dull as your eyes are drawn down the track I like this because you don't notice how over cast the sky is until that point.
When taking images for this technique you would normally take 3-5 shots at different exposures. You would take 1 correctly exposed, 1-2 under exposed by a stop at a time and 1-2 over exposed by a stop at a time. When changing the stops it is better to change the shutter speed and not the aperture as changing the aperture will change your depth of field/focusing point.
Some cameras have an in camera HDR setting so they will taken 3 images for you at the different stops required in one go and then merge them for you in camera so you can see the result straight away. I have this setting in my Pentax. It is good and useful to have but it is also good to use Photoshop to put the images together yourself.
To merge the images manually in Photoshop you need to click File - New - Automate - Merge into HDR.Pro. - Browse - Select Images - Ok - Ok
Then you look at the presets and change things until you are happy with the final image and click Ok.
Here are the images I took and turned into HDR...
I quite enjoyed experimenting with this technique as for the right subject it can really bring out the best in the images. I think I prefer it for landscapes and architectural photographs though but I found it very useful to try it with something a little different. I am pleased I managed to focus on the subjects eyes in the bottom two images. It really makes them stand out and be the first point in the image you look at before working your way around the rest of the subjects face and to the hair and beyond. I like the bottom of the top two images the most as it has a real moody effect to it. I think the top image is plain and not really that interesting but when I edited it I got the second image.
I think I would like to use this technique more and try other new and different ways to experiment with it in the near future. It is something I would use in my final images for a unit.






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